Comfort and Suffering

Scottish Winter Mountaineering and Climbing

Im writing this from The Cold Hotel - my van, parked up at my usual Fort William overnight doss spot. My fingers feel sharp with cold. I’m not complaining, many seasons of winters spent in my beloved metal box have rendered this existence something that I miss when I’ve been away from it for periods of time. Boxes of semi organised kit fill the space around me, and I’m semi organised for tomorrow. Another early freezing start beckons. Tomorrow I’m meeting up with Jamie to catch the early climber’s gondola up to Aonach Mor and on over to the East Face where this evening’s plans will hopefully be realised. I was up there today on an avalanche training course, delivered by Graham Moss of the Scottish Avalanche Information Service, for members of the Association of Mountaineering Instructors. It was a good course - the best I’ve been on, and peering over the East Face made up my mind for tomorrow. I’ve been up in Scotland for two weeks now and had two days off since being here. I’m heading into another block of activity and very much looking forward to it. 

My hill legs are kicking back into gear. The pistons have started to pound after a creaky, un-oiled start. The heavy pack is starting to feel lighter and my shoulders are able to relax, my feet are finding the right spots under the masking snow in which to step. I’m beginning to feel the mountains as friends again. 

In the last week I’ve been staying in a lovely rented house in Glen Coe. It beats staying in the van, or in club huts hands down. With large, cosy, warm rooms, with plenty space to speed yourself out. Pulkit, Qin and Ankur stayed for two nights and we went out for a couple of day’s winter skills training. Then friends from Bristol - Ed and Alex came to stay and we had four days winter climbing around Glen Coe. Thanks all for making the long journey North…  

Back in Scotland

Me and Dave headed up to The Lakes from Bristol on Wednesday afternoon and had a chilly van night underneath a frosty  Blencathra. We enjoyed a gentle leg stretch up Blunt Gully, finishing with the top half of Sharp Edge - just passed the “Sharp” bit. At Tyndrum, the snow gates were closed making a night time drive over Rannoch Moor unavailable. We settled down in the van for a second snowy sleep. Up early and with the snow ploughs having done their job over the Moor, we were on the The Bauchaille. I thought North Buttress would be a good classic as Dave’s first Scottish winter route. It was. That evening we checked into the Alex Mac’ hut in North Ballachulish and with Storm Henry (love that) on it’s way that night and into tomorrow, a rest day was called for. On Tuesday we hooked up with fellow MIC trainee Alister and we made a team of three on D Gully Buttress - into the top half of Curved Ridge back on The Bauchaille. With poor weather coming from the west, we were pretty well sheltered on that part of the mountain all day. Happy with that, we arranged to climb with Mark (another) MIC trainee the following day. The Ben was called for with such good weather. Comb Gully was in amazing conditions with real classic Nevis snow ice all the way, really good climbing. After a wonder to the summit - with Dave achieving "Tallest Man In Britain Award" by standing on the summit cairn, we descended Number 3 Gully. Not a bad intro to Scottish winter climbing for Dave. That night he caught his over night bus back to Bristol Bus Station. Well done Mate! 

That evening I went to see Alun, a mountain guide who’s staying near me while he does some work. Plans were hatched and we met again with Clive (an MIC also working up here) and Alister at 7:00am in Ballachulish Co-op car park. Off The White Coires we went. The North Ridge of Sron na Creise was on our to do list and short roping practise. Alister teamed up with Clive and Alun with me. After getting to the summit Stob a Ghlais Choire, Alun picked a cheeky looking gully for us me to lead the descent of. Then a traverse along a lesser gully and across the east face. Snowy, rocky ribs led down the east face, Alun stopped at a steep sidewall drop of about ten meters and told me to get him down it. After a lower round a block I counter balance abseiled down to him, and continued short roping down, with Alun trying to slip to keep me on my toes. Great training day. 

The Cold Hotel

A winter climb up Pen y Fan's Central Gully 

On Wednesday evening, after seeing Gethin to bed, I drove off to the Brecon Beacons for a night in the van - The Cold Hotel. 

I was supposed to be climbing with Dave Linnett, but Dave ended up busy at home, so I was able to get Choire Horobin on board. As I settled into the back of my van around 9:30pm, it didn't take long until the thermometer was reading -4. Wrapping up well, I got some sleep. The following morning temperatures had dropped to -7 and I quickly got a brew on. Choire eventually arrived and we set off up over Corn Du and over to Pen y Fan's North Face. It was a stunning day, the ground was frozen like a rock. After a cool descending traverse of the N Face, we found ourselves at the bottom of Central Gully. The ice that was covering parts of the crux steps was thin but climbable and the turf made for excellent placements, with no damage inflicted. Six pitches to the top and some interesting sections to have fun on. Great adventure for the day in a beautiful setting... Cheers for coming Choire.  

Winter arrives - for me anyway!

Winter Climbing and CPD in Snowdonia 

On Wednesday evening I packed up the van and headed up to Snowdonia to meet up with Choire and Nick to poke about some high Cwms around Ogwen. We stomped up to the base of Glyder Fawr Crag at around 800m hoping to find decent conditions. After climbing a route there, we dropped down into Cwm Cneifion to get a closer view of Clogwyn Du and Tower Rib - which were both looking well rimed and cold. Our second day's objective was chosen and we slogged back up to Cwm Cneifion and got onto Tower Rib and took a cool direct line up that via it's gully on the right. On Saturday it was the start of the AMI AGM, held at Plas y Brenin and it was good to get into the warm after a sub zero night in the van. It was also good to catch up with other mates I've not seen for some time over a couple of cups of tea. AGM involved CPD workshops covering various topics, and I had chosen Winter Short Roping for Saturday. This was being run by Steve Long and we headed off and up to Cwm Glas to practise for the day and share experiences, techniques and issues. Then it was back to the Brenin for the AGM and then a further catch up with those attending. The workshop I was on on Sunday was a Pre-MIC assessment talk in the morning and a practical session in the afternoon involving slick transitioning between short roping, into leading in series, into leading in parallel, and back into any of the above. This was run by MIC trainer/assessor Keith Ball and was excellently delivered. That evening it was back in the van and I got home in time to see Gethin before he went to bed. Great stuff. 

2015 - A Year on the Sea Cliffs of Pembroke

Sea Cliff Climbing in Pembroke

Well it's a little late but either way, here's the last year's sea cliff climbing adventures summed up in the obligatory photo slide show to music! It's been a great year of work and play and a big thank you goes out to all the clients and friends I made it out with in 2015. Really looking forward to another great season to come, but before thoughts really forces on sunny climbing here in Pembs, a six week winter adventure in Scotland awaits.... 

[youtube=://www.youtube.com/watch?v=AnuVg1HSchE&w=854&h=480]