Pembroke Sea Cliff Climbing and Instructing
Last week I was out for a poke about with Edmond. He had kindly said he would join me on a new route hunt in Lydstep Cavern Bay area. After abseiling down the first route I had in mind, we were both put off by the terminally loose full hight groove that hadn't looked so bad from the ground. Plan B was to look at a route between Mellow Yellow and Set Back Grooves. After Getting to the roofs at two thirds hight and being uninspired by the temporary look of the rock above, wild undercutting lead out left into more serious ground. Having run out 40m of rope, much of my gear was below me in the route and I was out of most of the protection that would help the situation. Reaching a point 5m away from the top and looking at the ground ahead, I came to the decision that progress might deliver a bad hand, so I made the worrying down climb back past the shaky gear and refuge under the roofs. A couple of slings were left and I ended up at the ground, shaken but unhurt. Thanks Edmond for the patient belay and encouragement on route. Feeling a little bad for wasting Ed's morning, I then followed him up the Pat Littlejohn super classic Pan in No Man's Zawn. Good job Ed!
The following week was filled with work at the Pembrokeshire Adventure Centre on a Team Program.
Yesterday I was on a aquatic journey by boat from Broad Haven South to Church Rock. Three established routes lie on this pinnacle feature out to sea and I had often looked out to it while walking to areas like Mowing Word Now through invitation by Dave Linnett of Bald Eagle Productions fame, we were paddling out with kit in dry bags and an ambition for some exploratory giggles. After climbing two of the established routes, attention turned to some unclimbed lines. Three new routes were climbed (all pretty chossy) but fun non the less. Thanks Dave, Dave 2, Steve, Mel and Emma for some good company and whacky mission.
Today I was out again with Climb Pembroke regulars Asa and Phil. With summer feeling it will never end, we met up in St. David's and headed to Craig Caerfai. After the short, beautiful cliff top walk, Phil rigged the abseil rope and down we went, first on the crag. I kicked off by leading them up White Wall, as they hadn't climbed on the Sy. David's sandstone and I wanted them to get a good feel for it before leading themselves. After another abseil, Phil then lead off on Burnt Arete, with me jugging beside him pointing out gear placements and talking tactics. He skilfully brought up Asa and then the gear was passed on to her. Asa lead up Scorch Groove and then built a belay and belayed Phil up. Phil then finished by leading up the lovely Caerfai Crack. Nice to see so many other climbers and familiar faces out at the crag today! Cheers Asa and Phil.