Sea Cliff Rock Climbing in Wales
Well, it's hard to believe that with a day before December 1st you could be climbing on the sea cliffs of Pembrokeshire with your T.shirt off and not sporting nipples that could cut glass, but yesterday the sun was out and it felt hot! I had the pleasure of climbing with Pembrokeshire activist Paul for the first time and after meeting up, decided on Buckspool Down as our crag for the day. We set our abseil and headed down to our non tidal base. There was a fair swell running with high tide at mid day and a gentle northerly breeze, so Buckspool offered a sheltered location for our time. First up I headed off on the wonderful Run Wild. At E1 5b it felt a soft touch but great climbing non the less, having nice steep sections in the lower half and then delicate slab climbing in it's upper half on superbly rough limestone - well deserving of it's two star accolade.
Paul, being Paul, mentioned he'd spotted a potential new line, so down we went and ditching his sweater and T.shirt he set off the start of an Alun Richardson route Luciferase with the sun on his back and a blue sky above him. After tackling the initial overhang, traversed right and took a direct line straight up the slab with interesting moves throughout. The odd rock that had been extracted from the wall came whistling down and shattered on the boulders below somehow quite peacefully and then it was my turn to follow.
Down for a third time and I headed up a good looking line just right of Space to Move. A steep crack lead to a large shelf and the west side of a large fin of rock with a diagonal crack running through it at two thirds hight, which lead to a super exposed knife edge ridge, leading to the top. A top little route at E2 5b and probably worth a star. Ace few hours out!