Adventure Trad Climbing in Pembroke
This morning I was greeted to this winter's first hard frost and a quick battle to de-ice the van. I met up early with Ed' at a car park just outside the Narberth and chucked the kit I was tasked to bring, into the back of his car. Off we went, north over the Presseli hills in the beautifully crisp, cold, yellow morning light towards Fishguard.
The evening before we had been a little unsure on where to go. The cliffs within the South Pembrokeshire Range were closed for firing, which left the Tenby to Broadhaven South area of sea cliffs, but me and Ed had done a lot there this year and wanted some adventure on less trodden rock. In 2013 I had climbed "up north" with Dan Donovan at Needle Rock, where we had opened up two new two pitch routes, one E1 on the Needle itself and one E3/4 up the impressive larger back wall. We hadn't however climbed any of the established routes there though, so me and Ed went for a look about.
After a "blow the cobwebs off" abseil. we landed under our first route for the day Krakatoa, a good looking two pitch E2, which I lead past numerous suspect sections of rock but great moves and great line up the centre of the crag. We abseiled down again and Ed set up at the base of the massive single pitch of Gert Crack - E3 5c, which he despatched steadily and confidently, although there was much lichen and loose rock, as well as dirt and a little vegetation. As it states in the guide book, it gives a good Pembrokeshire adventure! Both these routes were only put up in 2011 by the machines Paul Donithorne and Adam Mulholland and goes to prove that if you have an eye for exploration, there is still plenty of classics still to be realised. If you climb in Pembrokeshire #DontJustGoToStGovans